Jewelry guide
Stone settings






















Bezel
The oldest setting style – bezel setting, is the most secure setting there is. The metal is burnished over the stone all around, making stone impossible to move.
There’s probably no stone that couldn’t be setted in the bezel!
+ Hides well imperfections on the stone
+ Really secure
– Doesn’t let stone shine


Prong
Prong setting (or claw setting) is the most common setting style. This style lets gemstones shine at the best, and the prongs doesn’t catch up with clothes if the stone is setted right. There can be 4, 5, 6 or even 8 prongs in one stone.
Most of the stones are suitable to this setting.
+ Allow maximum amount of light to the stone
+ Unlimited styles
– Prongs need regular tightening


Basket
Similar to the prong setting, except there’s a small “basket” to hold the stone in place. There’s thousands and thousands styles to make a basket to the stone. This is good option to jewelries what are used every day.
Most of the stones can be used in this kind of setting.
+ Adds more durability to the setting
– Stones may not shine as well


V-prong
V-prongs purpose is similar to the prong setting; except v-prong has angled prongs, making it more suitable to the stones with angle, like princess and baguette.
V-prong suits angled stones the best.
+ Keeps stones well secured
– Suitable only for the stones with angle


Channel setting
There is two mostly used styles in Channel setting; one with bars between the stones and other with two walls surrounding the stones. The one with the bar is suitable for the round and square shaped stones, the other is most common in angle-shaped stones, like princess and baguette. It is possible to set round stones in the wall channel setting, but the dirt likes to set itself between the round stones.
Mostly the round and stones with the angle is suitable for this setting.
+ Stones shines beautifully
– May lose some stones over the time


Gipsy setting
This setting is entirily made out of jewelry’s mase shape by graver, filing etc. Usually the stones are going all around the ring. There’s multiple different styles to make decorative looks on gipsy setting.
Mostly round stones are suitable for this setting.
+ Stones get nice amount of light and shines beautifully
– In alliance ring (stones all around the jewelry’s body) stones may get lost over the time


Flush/Gypsy setting
This setting is also known as burnish setting. This is maybe the fastest and easiest setting when done right. This setting has no prongs, so there’s no way this setting is getting snagged by the clothes. This kind of setting sets stone securely, so there is no need to be afraid about losing the stone.
+ No fear of losing the stone
– Only suitable for round stones


Halo
Halo has multiple stones. One big in the center, surrounded by smaller stones. There’s no way this stone set is invisible to the eyes! This setting makes stones look bigger than they are, and halo is easy to customize. The smaller stone’s prongs can be hidden a little bit and they will still be secure.
Center stone can be any shape, and the smaller stones can be princess or brilliant cut.
+ Really stunning
– Expensive compared to other stone settings


Cluster
Cluster setting holds usually 5 or more stones. There’s multiple ways to customize this setting, and usually the outer stones have a prong or two. While this setting is beautiful, there’s a chance the stones may fall out if this setting is used in jewelry you use every day – this kind of jewelry could be used in special occasions.
If there’s halo-kind-of setting, the center stone can be any shape. For outer stones, the brilliant stone is the best option.
+ Stunning and easily customizable
– May be expensive compared to other settings, stones may fall out in everyday use


Grain setting
Grain setting on one of the hardest set styles. Usually brilliant stones are used in this setting, and the grain comes from the base metal. Grain gets lifted up by graver and gets its shape by graining tool. The grains are usually really small, and they don’t get snugged up by clothes.
Only brilliant stones are usable in this set.
+ Doesn’t get caught up in clothes
– If done wrong, stones may fall out


Star setting
This setting is like a grain setting – except the shape of the star is made by gravers.


Pavé
In this setting there’s multiple, usually small, stones. The technique is similar to the grain setting, and there’s only a little bit metal between the stones. This kind of setting can be any shape, but the stones are mostly brilliant.
+ Can be used any kind of surface
– Stones may fall out, depending how often jewelry is used


Tension
In tension setting stone is hold in its place by tension. It is important to use hard metals on this setting, so the stone doesn’t fall out – like a titanium, gold or platium. Also the gem has to be hard, like a diamond, ruby or sapphire. In simpler style of tension setting the both ends meet, but there is a stone between them. In twisted style metal goes around the stone.
Every kind of stone can be setted.
+ Simple and elegant
– Stone may fall out if jewelry gets hit


© Kilahus 2020